I made over my sister’s dining area last summer by building a bench seat and adding an accent wall. But she didn’t have a table, so I of course had to build her one! Building a dining table might seem intimidating, but it is actually fairly simple! Most of it is basic construction! The hardest part is getting the large piece of plywood to fit in your car. So read on to learn how to build this fluted table.
Supply List (Note: I make a small commission from affiliate links, at no cost to you)
- 2x4x8 Lumber (4)
- 1x4x8 Pine boards (2)
- 4×8 3/4″ Birch Plywood (1)
- 1x3x8 Pine Boards (3)
- 1x2x8 Pine Boards (4)
- Brad Nailer with 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
- Miter Saw
- Pocket Hole Jig
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Wood Stain
- Panel Feature–1/4″ plywood panels, beadboard, pole wrap or beaded plank boards from Home Depot (This is what I used and the most cost effective way to get a fluted look)
- 4 @ 22.5″ (horizontal leg supports)
- 6 @ 26.25″ (vertical leg supports)
- 2 @ 42″ (leg stringers)
- 4 @ 22.5″ (top and bottom leg covers)
- 4 @ 30.75″ (side leg covers)
- 3 @ 21″ (top and bottom face frames for front and back of your legs)
- 4 @ 30.75″ (side face frames for front and back of your legs)
- 2 @ 36″ OR 37.5″ long end to long end for mitered joints
- 2 @ 79.5″ OR 79.5″ long end to long end for mitered joints
- 3/4″ Plywood
The first step will be creating the frames for your table legs. Using your wood screws, screw your horizontal leg supports to the vertical leg supports as shown below (do this two times for each leg).
The next step is wrapping the edges of your legs with your 1×4 boards. Use your nail gun to add your top and bottom leg covers to the top and bottom of your legs and then add your side boards. Use wood glue and at least 1 1/4″ brad nails. And then add your side leg covers with glue and nails.
Next add your 1×2 front and back frame pieces. The front pieces will extend all the way around the frame, but do not put a piece on the top of the backside because this is where you will attach your 2×4 stringers.
Next you will cover the inside of your face frames. You can use pole wrap, or you can buy beaded planks from Home Depot and cut them to size (27.75″), then glue and nail them to the inside frame pieces (2×4 pieces), You could also use 1/4″ plywood panels (cut to 21″x27.75″).
If you are using pole wrap, since it is expensive, I would recommend putting 1/4″ plywood panels on the inside end of the legs since they are less visible.
Next you will connect your legs with your 2×4 stringers. You should add pocket holes to each end of your stringer boards and then attach them to the inside top of each leg. This is why you didn’t add that additional 1×2 board when you were framing your legs in step 3.
Now all that is left to do is make the tabletop. For this you will cut your 3/4″ plywood down to 36″ x 78″. Then you will frame the edges with 1×3 boards to make it look thicker.
The measurements below are framing the table with butt joints, however for a more professional look, I recommend mitering the corners. For butt joints, cut 2 1×3’s to 36″ and 2 1×3’s to 79.5″. For mitered cuts, cut two pieces to 37.5″ long end to long end and two pieces to 79.5″ long end to long end. Glue and nail to he boards to the edge of the plywood. It will probably be easiest to stain before assembling the base to the top. Make sure to sand, stain and seal your piece! When you are ready attach the legs to the base you can either use 2″ wood screws through the stringers into the top, or you can use U-shaped mounting brackets.
Now you have a beautiful fluted table! Send me a picture or tag me on IG if you make it, I’d love to see how it turns out. And don’t be afraid to reach out with any questions, I’m happy to help!